How to get and maintain 180 waves

How to get and maintain 180 waves


First of all, 180 waves are very different in the naming scheme than all the other types of waves. Basically, all the other waves go based on how the pattern of your waves form. For instance, if your waves go around your head in a horizontal fashion, those are 360 waves. If they go diagonally around your head, those are 540 waves. And if they go around your head vertically around your head, those are 720 waves.

But 180 waves have nothing, and I mean nothing to do with the pattern of your waves. This means that one individual could have waves on the top looking like 360 waves, or 540 waves, but with a trim on both sides of your head. And that’s why a lot of guys settle with 180 waves, and that’s why they are the most common and believe it or not, the easiest to achieve because it is neater to maintain than the other waves, i.e., 360, 540 and 720. Here is a 5-minute read on how to get 180 waves, let’s get started.

So, what are 180 waves?

This is basically a combination of an army cut with waves on top. Below are some steps to ensure you get the best 180 waves. The first step to determine whether your hair is suitable for waves is all in the type of hair you have. Everyone’s hair is not alike, some are coarser than someone else’s, thus developing a curl pattern may be difficult to attain. Despite all these distinct differences, the procedure is still the same.

  • 1st step:

Go to your favorite barber get your hair cut on both sides of your head followed by a trim on the top with a razor-sharp cut.

  • 2nd step:

Get the recommended products to set your hair for the best look, i.e., shampoo, moisturizer and oils.

  • 3rd step:

Use a professional brush suitable for waves. Brushing from the back to the front of your head is the basic motion for this wave style.

  • 4th step:

Finish up by putting on your suitable durag for the night before bedtime, some may prefer velvet durags, and they seem to be coming back to fashion.


How to brush your hair for 180 waves.

The directionality or angle of achieving 180 waves is fairly simple; from the mid-section of your head to the front with one smooth stroke. Brushing in a repetitive motion flattens your curls against your head to form the spectacular ripple effect. No matter what you do, keep the angle constant. Many beginners tend to lose track of their angle and create forks in their waves, thus making inconsistencies in the formation. Forks are waves crashing into other waves, which doesn’t look too good if 180 waves is what you are after. You want straight lines from one side to the other.

How to get your 180 waves deeper?

The brush matters a lot in this stage, it is essential for evening hair out. Accompanying your brush would be a good shampoo, preferably something that is sulphate free and has great moisture retention. To follow up, a suitable scalp conditioner that also improves shine and luster.

When you go to get your hair cut after a reasonable 3-4 weeks, make sure your barber knows what your goals are. They should avoid cutting against the grain, or against the direction of your waves.


How to get 180 waves

How to wash your 180 waves.

Patience is key when it comes to this. Follow these steps to ensure a productive wash day;

Step 1: Use warm water to dampen your hair first. This is essential for the individuals who work out, warm-hot water strips the dirt to the scalp.

Step 2: apply your preferred shampoo on your damp hair. Massage the shampoo into your scalp and make sure all the shampoo has reached every inch of your hair especially if you are an athlete or very active. Ensure you don’t leave any area untouched because you get product build up in some parts.

Step 3: This when you can shower brush. Slow straight strokes from the back of your head to the front with a simple shampoo and a brush. Using your hand to flatten your waves after brushing intermittently and make sure you do not rush the process. This makes the connections more profound.

Step 4: You can switch to your conditioner or keep it on, this retains all the moisture and leaves your hair shinny. (You may use treatment masque to protect your hair without washing)

Step 5: Finish off your process with brushing in a pomade or olive oil to increase luster and shine.

How to get 180 waves

Wolfing for 180 waves.

Wolfing is the excruciating act of abstaining from a haircut for lengthy periods of time. Sounds dreadful, I know. 

During the wolfing period it is vital that you go even harder with your brushing and moisturizing regimen. You want to switch to a hard brush to make sure that your brushing penetrates the top layer of hair and gets down into the new growth. This period is crucial because it helps ensure that your waves connect and form some sort of recognizable pattern rather than the disarrayed collection of ripples. The longer you wolf the better. Most wolfing periods last somewhere between 4 to 6 weeks but it is has been known to go up to around 2-3 months. If you’re like me and can’t stomach the idea looking like an actual wolf, visit the shop to get a line up or a taper. 

You can wolf out your 180 waves for definition and waves pattern. A durag should be on every night, olive oil is ideal for moisture because it penetrates and adds shine to your hair. Alternatively, you can also shower brush to add moisture with shampoo and conditioner to improve your wave pattern.

When should you cut your hair when getting 180 waves?

After a regular maintenance of your 180 waves, three weeks is the optimal time you should take between visits to your barber. You shouldn’t take too many trips though; it will disrupt the waving process all together and you will lose all your effort.

How to get 180 waves

How long will it take to get 180 waves?

Well, it all depends on the texture of your hair and how much effort you put in your waves. It generally takes 4-6 weeks to get proper waves, with that said; every day is a milestone to achieving great waves.

At first, you should start with 15- 20 minutes every day for a week or so and gradually go up as time goes by. Working on your angles and focusing on putting the best wave products should be your goal. After a while putting 60 minutes a day will feel normal.

After brushing your hair, a durag overnight will protect the waves from frizzing up, and sleeping without it will make you lose progress when you’re in the process of forming your waves.

Do you have a crown for 180 waves?

When it comes to 180 waves, you should not stress too much on the crown, it’s mostly all about connections with this one. It differs among individuals because you are mostly brushing your hair on the top and majority of crowns usually form between the top and the back of the head.

How to get 180 waves

How to get 5-minute waves.

Now, don’t get me wrong. There’s no way you can achieve full on waves in 5-minutes. This is a way to take care of your waves for the 5-minutes you allow yourself in the morning or in the evening hours. The routine takes this long, not the process. Although, a disclaimer; results may vary due to the different textures of different individuals.

For this starter kit, you will need a few things; a moisturizer is very essential, shea curl moisturizing smoothie is a good place start. You’re going to rub this in the directionality of your waves.

Pomade for beginners helps your hair lay flat as you brush to get the waves. And finally, the two items you absolutely have to own are your favorite wave brush and a silk durag.

Do this every day for the prescribed 5-minutes to maintain your waves day and night.

180 waves for coarse hair.

It is sometimes difficult to attain waves with rough hair, so it advisable to start off your wave journey with a hard brush first, then a medium brush and continue using a soft brush. The hard brush helps with the pull and add more control when brushing and laying down your hair. But being a coarse hair waver doesn’t mean that you will get waves after forever, quite the contrary, a coarse hair waver doesn’t have to wolf as long as a medium or straight haired waver. The main goal is to have used all three brushes when getting your waves.

In short, an individual with coarse hair will curl faster than someone who is medium and straight haired, and in some instances, have the best hair waves in the room.

How to get 180 waves

Does 180 waves work for straight hair?

While you can get natural waves with straight hair and you don’t have to be black to make your hair wavy with a wave brush or durag, guys who have straight hair do need to have some type of curl pattern. Or at least the ability to create a wavy pattern in their hair. Specifically, if your hair is very thick and straight, it can be extremely hard to get 180 waves. This isn’t a race thing – it’s all about genetics. Even black people with 100% straight hair can find it difficult to wave their hair.

For starters, you will need to figure out your curl length. This is the minimum length of hair you will need to have to start getting waves. Longer hair is easier to make wavy, while short hair can quickly lose its waves. The amount of hair is different for every man and it ultimately depends on how straight and coarse your hair is. More regular brushing is advisable for straight haired guys, for this reason, we recommend guys buy one of the best wave brushes on the market.

How to get 180 waves

What products are needed for 180 waves and where to get them from.

Products for getting any kind of waves are generally the same. Brushes, shampoos, moisturizing conditioners and a durag are a must have for any waver’s starter package.

Shampoos and conditioners:

There are numerous shampoos specifically for guys who want to get waves. These shampoos are great to have, but they are not a must to use. It’s still possible to get waves using a regular shampoo; just look for something herbal, or a conditioning or protein shampoo.

Although shampoos strip the essential oils out of your hair, it is best to only wash once per week for good measure, followed up with a conditioner. Some guys opt for a co-washing method, which means that they skip the shampoo and just use conditioner. This method keeps the essential oils in your hair, and you can still rinse your hair every day.


This is the most critical part of getting your waves. Brushes train your hair to get that unique curl pattern. Preferably brushed when your hair is wet, or rather damp after a shower. If you need to put your daily brushing routine, just pour warm water over your head and blot out excess water and moisture with a microfiber towel and get to work.


Moisturizing conditioners:

As mentioned above, brushing is very important to achieve the waves you want. But with all this brushing, damage can be caused to your hair follicles to the repetitive stress your scalp endures. Throughout the training process, it is essential to keep your scalp well moisturized. But be aware of putting too much moisturizer, a maximum number of three times a week is advisable depending on how dry your hair is.

I’m sure most wavers are driven to buy pomades for moisturizing, but it contains a lot of petroleum which is dense, giving your hair a soppy feel. So, it is recommended that you use lighter moisturizers like shea butter.


It is absolutely imperative to put a durag on after brushing because it keeps it in place, saving your work. This is an item that cannot seem to lack in any wavers journey. Whether silk or velvet, if you want any kind of waves, a durag is very essential. If you are in need of either, you are in luck because there are vendors with large collections to your disposal. Make sure you do not put on your durag inside-out, because the crease may leave a bruise after leaving it on the whole night. Check out this site and choose from different colors and design of your liking. Happy hunting.

Tips to make your waves more defined.

  • Make use of a spritz for water moisture then brush. (make sure its warm water, cold water make the hair frizz and stick up)
  • Keep a ‘wave gel’ around to add sheen in case you don’t have to check you waves for hours at a time. Apply some on your hands and press it on your head in a forward motion and then finish off with your wave brush.


In Conclusion:

Following all these tips and advise on how to achieve 180 waves is relevant. If you have a hard time following through with the other waves, or they do not suit your head shape, you can’t go wrong with 180 waves. The steps are fairly simple to put in practice and all you need is a healthy hair routine.  Getting waves takes a lot of time and effort, but it will all be worth it once you finally see the results you are looking for. Good luck on your hair wave journey!

1 comment

  • jytavius ellis

    thanks for the tips on how to wash my waves and, how to get them deeper into my head.

Leave a comment